Chosen Solution
Samsung wf1752wpc The error code 3E keeps showing up on the machine at the start of the cycle. It won’t spin or start a rinse cycle or anything. I run the machine on test mode and when I select either spin or rinse it comes up with the error. I took the motor out and checked the bushes and they are all fine, but when I remove the top of the washing machine and play around with the wire harnessing and making sure plugs are pushed all the way in (I don’t really feel like I do anything to them) it starts working again! I have done this twice now and then it will stop working again after 4 or 5 washes. I’m not sure what would be causing it but I’m hoping someone could help me narrow it down so I can get it fixed permanently without having to get a new machine. Cheers
For me it was just a matter of replacing the brushes on the motor. Found a set on eBay for $29.95. 10 min job to replace them.
Hi Luke, I had this problem too - exactly as you described. E3 error. wiggled all the connections and it ran happily for a few washes then faulted again. It turned out to be the noise filter on the mains power. I have bypassed it for now and the machine works just fine. I have also ordered a replacement which i will install when it arrives.
Fens on pump are prob broke causing it to pump some but not enough.
Mine is a front loader model WF8802RPF. I believe there is a design fault with the circuit board as I’ve had to fix this issue twice on my machine. Fault presents as error code e3. Water will drain out but drum will not spin. Turn off power and gain access to the control circuit board by removing the top cover. Disconnect the plugs and remove the front panel. The circuit board is coated in clear silicon and stuck in a plastic housing. The circuit board needs to be removed to get access to the solder side. Cut the rubber coating around the edge and carefully prize the board out. The solder side is also coated in silicon. Mine has an orange relay (a rectangular shaped box) located near a socket with 6 pins (in a 3x2 configuration.) Carefully remove the silicon rubber covering the solder joints under that relay and examine the solder joints. What I found was what is called ‘dry joints’ where the solder shows cracking around some pins or even damage to the track. Often the solder can also look dull. This needs repair by resoldering (and track repair if damaged). (I suspect the electrical load is more than what the pads can handle, and that’s what causes the dry joints and hence the failure. ) Ideally after repair you should put silicone back in where you have removed it to cover the repair but I didn’t worry. Re-assemble and test.
I have been battling with 3E error for years on and off. I changed the control board but it was not the problem. I changed the door lock switch that was not the problem either. Everytime I run the spin test and it runs with no error code then I can wash a load without an error code. Finally I took out the heater and the thermostat sensor, soaked and cleaned them in vinegar, that seem to solve the problem for me for now. But I also noticed sometimes that when the wash gets down to 3 minutes and the drum is ready to go in high spin, it just fail and try to again and again, til it succeed. My problem with 3E seems to me that my motor doesn’t sometimes have enough power to spin the drum with heavier loads. Update (11/08/2022) Also 3E error could be that the motor is getting hot, and it is weak to initiate the drum to turn. Let it cool off for few minutes, hit pause then start and it should continue the wash normally.
E3 means different things for different manufacturers. Obviously, if you move wires around and it works you have a connection issue.
