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My whirlpool duet washer has had the error codes F03 and E01. The pressure switch has been replaced 3x’s with no results. Still get that error. I pointed out that it may be an Air Dome Assembly per service bulletin for this model of washer with the model # WFW95HEDWO. He, “The Tech” answer, even after I showed him the bulletin was “no I don’t think that the problem”. How much is that part and how hard is it to replace? Also, should I pursue this possible fix with Whirlpool? Thank you, Pat G.

The F01 indicates a failed electronic machine control board. This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines. You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes. … Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components. E03 The overflow condition occurs if there is too much water or foam in the washer. If overflow occurs, the valves are closed and the drain pump switches on for at least 30 seconds. … Once the error code is displayed, the cycle is terminated and all water is pumped out. Unplug the machine for five minutes to allow it to reset the plug it back in and observe any results and report them back.

Dear Patty, The problem is most probably a Air Trap Pipe Blockage, It can also be clogged with soap suds and leaking moisture, causing error code F03 E01. When clogged, the nozzle captures air incorrectly, wherefore it presses on the pressure switch. As a result, it determines the wrong amount of water in the tank, which sends a signal to the main control board. Hope this helps!

I just had the same error, I opened the back and the top cover, took out drain filter, it was so clean, we just got the house along with it two years ago. Anyway, the door was locked along with the errors, so next thing I went to look is the lock mechanism from the inside. Turn out just probably a slight misalignment of the lock, so I saw a small piece sticking out from the lock, when I pull it, it unlocks the door and I was able to open the door and when I plug it back again, it works!

I have a Whirlpool front load washer with the FO1 and EO3 error. This indicates that water is detected by the pressure sensor water level circuit. I realise some patients is needed in my analysis. I hope it helps you address the issue with some valuable insight. Make some observations. You may smell the inside of the washer. Does it smell damp with sour soap washer residue ? Consider that there is a buildup of scum throughout the washer. Disconnect the power and remove the rubber connector from the drain port of the machine at the top left. Attach a shop vacuum hose so that it fits over the drain port to remove the residual water and potential build up. reattach the drain hose. Add two table spoons of a water based degreaser such as Zep Orange Citrus to the bleach section. Add vinegar to the rinse softener section. Add 3 table spoons of CLR to the detergent section. Add 4 table spoons of baking soda to the tumbler. The degreaser, vinegar, and CLR will clean the dispenser and enter through the water inlet cycle into the cloths tumbler. The baking soda will make the water more hard to have less suds. Vinegar, and degreaser will remove the tendency of suds as well. The CLR generates suds and is recommend to be low volume near 1/8 cup. The CLR will remove calcification of the tubes. Turn the cycle dial to the self clean mode, or a hot wash cycle, and turn on the machine. The drain pump will run for a short while and start the clean cycle. There is a chance the sensor will still detect a high level condition. If it does, consider leaving it sit till the next day unplugged to allow and suds that may have accumulated in the sensor tubes to settle. If the sensor error continues, consider repeating the above. Allow the error code and pumping cycle go run for hours if it likes. Shut the door to tolerate the beeping. Each time the washer is going through a cycle of draining the water. Be patient and get through the self clean cycle once and try again a second time repeating the above. This should allow you to run about 4 loads. After the loads, consider running the same self cleaning cycle. You might have some alarms but be patient as this process will help you observe that the system works under certain conditions. The error is more likely do to too much soap. Only add Two table spoons of detergent and softener and add a degreaser. As the washer nears the end of it’s cycles and pumps water up to the top of washer drain port it needs to push out the water at a rate where enough water left in the tube and runs back down will not trigger the water pressure/level sensor. In fact, in the rinse cycle, the water is drained in stages as new water is introduced. So the sensor detects various levels through the pressure sensor and can trigger a false condition after any one of the drain cycles. The main reason is that too many bubbles are being generated and too much air is being introduced as the washer attempts to drain the tube. The bubbles lead to false measurement of level and the pump can not drain the bubble upward. Take off the top section of the washer and observe the cycles and the clear tube. If the pump is weak or there is too much air getting to the pump area suds will be generated. Certainly, cleaning the trap at the bottom of the washer will be one of the first things. The tubs checked for cracks, and that your tub smell very clean. These are things I would do before exchanging parts. I wish you well.

You have to take off the top cover and reach down and flip the open latch manually.

Check your drain filter if it’s accessible, if it’s not the technician should be checking that when they check over the machine. I just did one with the same errors and it was simply a clogged drain filter however it’s sometimes inside the machine and only a technician should attempt taking the u it apart.

I was an engineer that designed water treatment plants for 25 years and I’ve been a handyman for 10 years and this problem has stumped me for several years on my home machine (whirlpool duet front loader). I tried everything you might’ve read in this forum and every other. Of course the basics like unplugging it and clearing the error codes but all of the advanced stuff too . Replaced pressure transducers, drain pump, cleared all lines and filters checked circuit boards, leveled the unit check drain line configurations… no matter what it what I did it was always a temporary fix. Then last week I got Covid and as I recovered I said enough is enough and I had the time to just tear the thing apart. Dissembled the whole drain system and you know what? the answer to this jumped out at me immediately. The internal drain line from the bottom of the unit to the top effluent line is the culprit. Right near where it connects to the bottom is a check valve. This check valve is supposed to stop that 2 feet of water that goes to the top of the unit for discharge from falling back into the bottom sump. It can fail and worse than that it was designed with a hole in it!! That’s right a rubber flapper check valve with a hole in it which is something I’ve never seen in my life. Even if it closes the water will very slowly trickle back in through that hole and eventually refill the bottom sump. The engineer that designed this piece of crap should be fired. Replace this line and you will be good to go (see link below) but I didn’t even bother. I just sealed the 1th inch diameter hole in the gasket and voilà. Cheers! https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/…

I found I was putting in some cases twice the amount of detergent recommended by the detergent manufacturer, in my case it was Tide HE detergent. I was adding liquid detergent to the fill line in the washer but for a small to medium load that’s twice the amount needed. This is my third washer in twelve years and the one before that only lasted about four years. I never knew. Hope this helps.

I figured it out. I noticed that this error code happened more when I ran laundry than when my wife did. And since I am the only one to add detergent, I decided to try an experiment. Instead of filling the detergent dispenser to the fill line, I filled it only half full. Not one single load has errors since. Hope that this works for you as well.

I have had this issue multiple times and repaired it with different methods. First time I cleaned the dispenser motor contactsSecond time (one year later) replaced the entire dispenser motorThird time (one year later) had to replace the entire main board. It’s been running fine since and that was 2 years ago now. HtH.

Have a whirlpool front loader model:W10891955A. have been getting the F03 followed by E03 code. I took the back off the washer and accessed the trap for the drain (turned off water and unplugged first). Lots of stuff in there! Cleaned the whole thing out and replaced trap. First load ran fine with no error. Second load produced same codes. I am using Tide HE detergent in the “load and go” dispenser. I am wondering if it’s the detergent? I did just go back to using Tide a few months ago-and can’t remember for sure if that’s about when codes showed up. Anyone have ideas?

My Hisense washing machine was showing the f03 error. I opened the plug for water dispensing and some dirt came out. Of all things a tooth floss was blocking the water dispenser, I kept hearing a cracking sound just before the error sound . I took it out, now it’s working perfectly.

I am happy to say I have run 20 loads of various types without any error codes. The repeat maintenance I performed was the CLR decalcification clean under the system clean cycle of hot water cycle (such as towels). When the error E03 occurred I: Vacuumed the drain port while the pump was draining. Repeated until door lock opened. Placed CLR in all the dispenser trays (total) 1/8 cup. Added 1/4 cup of baking soda to the bin Ran a hot cycle or the system clean cycle On the next load I added only 1/2 the normal amount of clothes for 4 load cycles. Used 2 Table Spoons of Tide HE laundry detergent and 2 Tables Spoons of Softener. Ran hot water cycles Repeated the cleaning cycle with CLR after each cycle. Now the E03 error is gone and the washer runs consistently. I believe this cleaning method is a first diagnostic approach to help isolate any other issues. It can save on any physical repair or call to a tech.

I have this problem, too, and could use some help please.  I left the washer unplugged all night. I’ve removed the drain line and used a shop vac on it. I removed the top panel so I could get the door unlocked. I removed the back panel and cleaned out the drain filter. I had a hard time getting to where it would even let me run a load. Somehow, through a combination of unplugging it, leaving the door open when I plugged it back in, turning it on and off, etc., (and lots of luck, most likely), it finally let me push the buttons and run a cleaning cycle. Then it went back to the E01 F03 error. I did the unplug it dance again and finally was able to run a load (four towels). Then it did the error messages again (after the load finished). Now it just has 3 horizontal lines on the display (or the error codes) and won’t let me start it. (I’ve just been running it with vinegar, no detergent, in case that’s contributing to the problem.) I’d appreciate any help and suggestions. Thanks!

Prior to any parts replacement.

1. Fill each cavity of the dispenser with a high strength degreaser.
2. Run system clean. Setting is at 6 O’clock position. Repeat with CLR cleaner.
3. Fill each cavity of the dispenser the CLR cleaner.
4. Run system clean. Setting is at 6 O’clock position. Change how soap is placed in the machine.
5. Add 1 cup of Borax to the tumbler only. 2 Run a few times with 1/3 of the load. Diagnostic

Does the washer run a few loads or at least get past the wash and stop with Error code before rinse ?

Remove the top panel and locate the black tube in the back right side near the drain port . Twist the sensor that is attached to the bracket about 1/4 turn to release.Hold the sensor while grasp the black rubber tube at the closest point on the sensor port and gently rotate the sensor while rotating the rubber tube until it breaks contact with sensor port and you are able to remove the tube from the sensor.Reattach the sensor to the washer frame.without pulling on the rubber tube, blow through it repetitively and strong bursts of air.T I found that blowing through the tube each time after a clean helped solve most persistent issues after performing a clean. Wet vacuum of the drain port while the pump is running is helpful as a first step. You may need several cycles of cleaning and vacuuming and blowing before you get to the point where you may wash your clothes more consistently. BE PATIENT, just take your time to get past the clean cycles

I’ve had the same problem with a repairman out several times changing parts that made no difference but I’ve recently come upon a solution! Starting with the machine being clear, no codes, move the dial where you need it, then gently but firmly press the start button. If you accidentally double tap the start button or touch 2 buttons instead of just one, you’ll get an error message. Also, once the machine is running, do not pause it as this will cause an error message. Before I stated handling the machine this way I would get an error message at least once a wash day. Since I’ve been very careful, I haven’t had an error message in months.